Choose hotels in Taganrog's historic center near Petrovskaya, in merchant mansions, by Pushkin Embankment or countryside bases on the Azov coast — from boutique stays to daily rentals.
Taganrog is compact, and almost everything people come here for fits inside the rectangle between Petrovskaya, Grecheskaya and Oktyabrskaya streets: the Alferaki Palace, the Stone Staircase, the Chekhov addresses — ten to fifteen minutes on foot from one to the next. Staying in these blocks saves you from cars and buses: step out of your room and you are already on the route, and in the evening there is somewhere to go for dinner. The best option if you have come for a weekend of architecture and unhurried city walks.
The real local luxury is sleeping not next to a landmark but inside one: some of the merchant mansions on Grecheskaya, Petrovskaya and Chekhova streets have been restored and turned into small hotels with a handful of rooms each. Character in houses like these usually runs ahead of the plumbing and wiring, so when choosing, read recent reviews about the rooms themselves — soundproofing, bathrooms, water pressure — rather than about the lobby and breakfast. A format for travelers who come for the mood of the city, not simply for a place to sleep.
Taganrog has several Chekhov addresses — the cottage where he was born, his father's shop, the grammar school — and all of them lie within half an hour's easy walk of one another, in the old blocks around Petrovskaya and Aleksandrovskaya streets. Base yourself here and you can work through them in any order and without hurrying, stopping at the Alferaki Palace on the way and taking the Stone Staircase down to the bay. The ideal base for a literary trip of a day or two.
The city stands on the high bank of the Taganrog Bay, and from Pushkinskaya Embankment and the port district it takes five to ten minutes to walk down to the water while staying within easy reach of the center. The Sea of Azov is shallow and warms up early, so the swimming season opens by the beginning of June and holds until September. Bear in mind that the city beaches here are more for strolling — swimming is more comfortable outside the city limits.
A proper beach holiday begins beyond the city limits — on the sand spits and in the coastal villages of the Neklinovsky District, where the water shelves gently and the sea is a couple of minutes from the buildings. Country clubs and park hotels on the outskirts win you over with something else: private grounds, a pool, barbecue areas and a kids' activity program, so you can spend a week there without driving off once. A car comes in handy almost everywhere — public transport runs out here only rarely.
The cheapest places to stay in Taganrog are guest houses and apartments in the residential districts: on Svobody, in Bolshoy Sadovy Lane, further along Chekhova and Moskatova. The museums are twenty to thirty minutes away by bus from there, but a night costs noticeably less than in the center. The logical choice for a work trip, a stopover or a night before an early train, when all you need from a room is a good sleep.
It is about 75 kilometers by highway from Rostov-on-Don to Taganrog, an hour to an hour and a half behind the wheel, so most people drive themselves — and then parking, late check-in and a meeting room matter more than the view from the window. Hotels like these stand away from the historic core, closer to the exit roads and the industrial areas, but the center is ten to fifteen minutes from them. A convenient option if the trip is a business one and you will be getting around town by car anyway.
Go for the center — the blocks around Petrovskaya, Grecheskaya and Oktyabrskaya. From there you can walk to the Stone Staircase, to the Chekhov cottage and to the Alferaki Palace, and in the evening the cafes and the embankment are a short stroll away. The city is compact, so on a first trip a car is more of a burden than a help.
There is, but not in the city itself. The swimming season runs from late May or early June through September: the Sea of Azov is shallow and warms up quickly. Within the city you go down to the water from Pushkinskaya Embankment, but the beaches there suit walking better than swimming. For a real swim, people head for the spits outside town — Stantsiya Morskaya, Zolotaya Kosa, Sambek.
The range is wide. Guest houses and by-the-night apartments in the residential districts come cheapest, city hotels in the center are next, and the top end belongs to the 19th-century boutique mansions and the country resorts with a pool. In summer, at the height of the swimming season, the coast rises in price more sharply than the city — check the hotel cards above for current rates.
The drive takes an hour to an hour and a half each way, so it can be done, but only just. To take in the Chekhov museums, the Alferaki Palace and the Stone Staircase without rushing, it is better to stay the night: the center in the evening and the sunset over the bay are worth a day of their own.
If you are coming for the architecture and the atmosphere, take a boutique hotel in a 19th-century mansion — there is almost nowhere else in the region to have that experience. If you only need a bed before moving on, a guest house or an apartment on the outskirts will cost noticeably less, and the center is fifteen to twenty minutes away by bus.
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