About Rostov-on-Don

Rostov-on-Don is a city of over a million people, the administrative center of Rostov Oblast and one of the largest cities in the south of European Russia. It spreads across the high right bank of the Don. Rostov lies about 1,080 kilometers from Moscow along the M-4 highway, and roughly 50 kilometers east of the mouth of the Don and the Sea of Azov. The city is often called the “Gateway to the Caucasus”: road and rail routes run through it to Krasnodar, Stavropol, the Black Sea coast, and the republics of the North Caucasus.

The city’s history began in 1749 with a decree of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna establishing the Temernitsa customs post, and twelve years later the fortress of St. Dmitry of Rostov was founded here, giving the city its name. Today, more than 1.1 million people live in Rostov.

Rostov has many facets. Its center is pure 19th-century merchant Russia: Bolshaya Sadovaya and Pushkinskaya streets have preserved mansions and tenement houses from that era. The Don sets an entirely different rhythm: the embankment with its piers and pleasure boats sits next to Levberdon — a twenty-kilometer strip of beaches, holiday resorts, and floating restaurants. Add southern flair and a multicultural layer to that — the aroma of Don crayfish, the Armenian traditions of Nakhichevan, and bustling markets — and you’ll get a real taste of Rostov.

How the city is laid out

The Don River divides Rostov into two very different banks. The right bank is the historic and business center, where residents live, work, and relax. The left bank, known to locals as Levberdon, is given over to recreation: this is where the beaches, hotels, and waterside restaurants are located.

The center

Getting around downtown is straightforward. The main axis — Bolshaya Sadovaya Street — stretches from Theater Square to Voroshilovsky Avenue. Merchant mansions, the TsUM department store, the regional museum of local lore, and the monument to the five founders of the St. Dmitry of Rostov fortress line the street. Running parallel to Bolshaya Sadovaya is Pushkinskaya — a quiet pedestrian street under green tree canopies, a favorite spot for residents to unwind. From Cathedral Square, with its Cathedral of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin (consecrated in 1860, designed by architect Konstantin Ton), lanes descend to the Fyodor Ushakov Embankment. The two-kilometer promenade between the Voroshilovsky and Bogatyanovsky descents was renovated ahead of the 2018 World Cup. Today you can see dozens of sculptures here — “Rostovchanka,” “Father Don,” “Bathing the Horse” — as well as piers for river cruises and evening fountains.

Nakhichevan

The eastern part of the center is occupied by Nakhichevan-on-Don — a district that was a separate city until 1928. It was founded by Armenian settlers from Crimea by decree of Catherine II in the late 1770s. The regular grid of “lines” instead of ordinary streets is preserved here to this day, and along them stand pre-revolutionary mansions, Armenian churches, bakeries, and restaurants. For those already familiar with the imperial center, Nakhichevan reveals itself as a second, less obvious layer of the city.

The outskirts and Levberdon

To the north, near the Severnoye Reservoir, stands the Armenian church of Surb Khach — a temple from 1786–1792, one of the oldest surviving buildings in Rostov-on-Don. The western residential district borders the main railway station, Rostov-Glavny, from where you can reach Cathedral Square on foot in twenty minutes or by tram in five stops.

The left bank, or Levberdon, is administratively also part of the city, but it feels like a separate district. Ahead of the World Cup, the 45,000-seat Rostov Arena stadium was built here — the home ground of FC Rostov. At the same time, the strip along the water has been preserved as the city’s main beach and restaurant belt.

What it’s known for and what to see

A city itinerary

Start with the classic route: stroll along Bolshaya Sadovaya and Pushkinskaya, drop into Gorky Park with its observatory and flower beds, and on the way down to the Don, take in the architecture of the 1915 State Bank building. The final stop is the Fyodor Ushakov Embankment. This is the city’s main “living room”: people come here to walk, admire the sculptures, set off on river cruises, and dine with a view of the left bank.

What to try and where to relax

Rostov Zoo: one of the largest in Europe, home to more than 400 animal species across 90 hectares. For families with children, this is often the main highlight of a trip.
The Central (Old) Market: not just a shopping spot, but a hands-on course in Don cuisine. This is the place to try Don river fish, dried goby, crayfish, and homemade cheeses.
Levberdon: the left bank of the Don is the heart of Caucasian-Don cuisine. People come here for ukha fish soup, shashlik, and crayfish. The easiest way to get here from the center is by taxi across the Voroshilovsky Bridge (10–15 minutes).

Where to go outside the city

There are plenty of spots around Rostov for half-day excursions:

Tanais: an ancient city from the 3rd century BC in the open air at the mouth of the Dead Donets. Today it operates as an archaeological museum-reserve.
Azov: here you’ll find the remains of a Turkish fortress and the famous paleontological museum with skeletons of the southern elephant and the Trogontherium mammoth.
Starocherkasskaya: the former capital of the Don Cossacks, with the 18th-century Resurrection Cathedral.

How to get there and get around

Getting there

Train: the most convenient option. Direct trains from Moscow depart from Kazansky Station and arrive at Rostov-Glavny station (in the western part of the center). Travel time is 15 to 17 hours.
Bus: services are available, but they are less comfortable and slower than the train.
Plane: Platov Airport (ROV) has been closed to passenger flights since February 2022. We recommend checking the current status before planning your trip.

Getting around the city

Rostov does not have a metro. The main forms of transport are buses, trolleybuses, trams, and marshrutkas (shared minibuses).

On foot: the city center is compact — the walk from the station to Cathedral Square takes about 20 minutes.
Taxi: a ride across the city will cost 350–500 ₽. This is the most convenient way to reach Levberdon (the left bank of the Don).
River transport: in summer, pleasure boats depart regularly from the Fyodor Ushakov Embankment.

Where to stay

For those choosing a base for their trip, the city offers about 294 hotels and guesthouses in various categories: from small family-run options starting at 3,700 ₽ per night to international 4★ chains. A current selection is easy to browse in the hotel catalog on moyabron.ru.

For quiet and proximity to the pedestrian zone, most people choose the area around Bolshaya Sadovaya and Pushkinskaya streets; for a view of the Don and closeness to the stadium — the left bank; for savings — the Severny or Zapadny residential districts.

Weather and when to go

Rostov-on-Don has a temperate continental climate, with hot summers and mild winters.

Summer (June–August): the “high season.” During the day, temperatures rise to +29…+33 °C, and at night to +17…+20 °C. This is the ideal time for strolls along the embankment, relaxing at Levberdon, and visiting evening terraces. In the midday heat, it’s better to plan visits to museums or cool, cozy restaurant halls.
Spring and autumn: spring here is rapid — by May the air already warms up to +22 °C. Autumn is perhaps the best time for walking. September delivers dry warmth (+26 °C), and on the third weekend of the month the city celebrates City Day on a grand scale. October remains comfortable (+18 °C), and it’s only by November that things turn cooler.
Winter: mild by Russian standards, with daytime temperatures of around +2…+3 °C (with a slight sub-zero dip at night) and infrequent snow. It’s the season of indoor museums, restaurants, and Christmas markets, and also a time when accommodation prices drop.

Good to know: peak demand falls on the New Year holidays, major events, and the “golden” weekends of spring and early autumn: room rates during such periods can rise by up to 30% above base prices.

Rostov-on-Don is the perfect city for a packed weekend. In a couple of days you can fit it all in: stroll through the imperial center, try Don crayfish at Levberdon, explore the colorful Nakhichevan, and take a trip to ancient Tanais or the Cossack village of Starocherkasskaya. The city works equally well as a standalone destination and as a starting point for travels around Rostov Oblast and the Sea of Azov region.