Holidays in Gagra: An Old Seaside Resort with Day Trips to Lake Ritsa

Old Gagra: The Colonnade, Seaside Park, and the Gagripsh Restaurant

The resort’s historical core stretches in a narrow strip between the Gagra Range and the sea.

From the 1956 Colonnade you can set off for a walk along the shady alleys of Seaside Park. Palms, cypresses, and eucalyptus trees grow here. The park was laid out in 1902 — at the same time as the resort itself.

At the end of the alley stands the Gagripsh restaurant. This is a wooden building from 1903, assembled without a single nail on the orders of Prince Alexander of Oldenburg. The components were shipped from abroad and put together on the shore.

Higher up the slope above the park rises the prince’s own castle. It has been in a semi-ruined state since the 1990s, but you can still walk freely up to its walls.

At the mouth of the Zhoekvara River sits Abaata Fortress from the 5th–6th centuries — the oldest structure in town. Inside its walls stands the Church of Saint Hypatius, also built in the 6th century.

From here begins a short walk up the Zhoekvara Gorge. You can enjoy the mountain air and listen to the sound of the water — for this you don’t need a car or a guided tour, just go on foot.

New Gagra: Longer Beaches, More Cafés, a Bigger Market

Southeast of Old Gagra lies the busiest part of the resort. Here you’ll find the central market (people come for khachapuri boats, ajika, churchkhela, and smoked suluguni), a water park, a dolphinarium, and most of the guesthouses. The beaches in this part are wider and longer, and the promenade is more lively.

If you’re heading to the sea with children or a large group, it will be more convenient to stay here. But if you’re after quiet and postcard views, choose Old Gagra.

Swimming Season: Late May to Mid-October

By late May, the water warms up to +18–21 °C. In July and August the temperature holds around +26–28 °C, and in September it’s still close to +24 °C. In summer, behind the range, it rarely gets hotter than +32 °C, and in winter daytime temperatures stay around +7…+9 °C.

• May–June — the start of the season: prices are more moderate, and the water is already comfortable for swimming.
• July–August — peak season: this is when there are the most holidaymakers and the highest prices.
• September to early October — the velvet season. The sea is still warm, and the beaches see fewer queues and crowds.
• November–March — swimming is off the table in this period. But you can visit the citrus markets, mountain viewpoints, and admire the architecture — all of which are available year-round.

Book early if you’re coming in August

At peak season, options with a sea view get snapped up months in advance. For the full list, see the Gagra hotels page.

A Day Trip to Lake Ritsa via the Yupshara Canyon

The main excursion out of Gagra is the trip to the mountain Lake Ritsa in Ritsa Relict National Park. The lake sits at an altitude of 950 metres, about 70 kilometres from town.

Along the way you’ll pass through the Yupshara Canyon: in places the cliffs come within just a few metres of each other. Another point on the route is Blue Lake. It is karstic, and its colour comes from the lazurite in the surrounding rock.

From the main road you can turn off to the Gega Waterfall. It is about 70 metres high, and it was also a filming location for the Soviet TV series Sherlock Holmes.

The excursion usually takes a full daylight day: tourists set off at 8–9 in the morning and return in time for dinner.

For those who want to skip the car and the group, there are two options. The first is a walk through the Zhoekvara Gorge straight out of Old Gagra. The second is the climb up Mount Mamdzyshkha. The winding road leads up to about 1,873 metres, where a panorama of the entire coast opens up.

Getting There: Sochi Airport, the Psou Border, and Thirty Minutes to the Sea

The nearest airport is Sochi (Adler). From there to the border crossing over the bridge on the Psou River is about 7 km, and then there are another 22 km to Gagra itself.

By car without traffic, the drive from the border takes about half an hour. At peak season the bridge can have traffic jams lasting several hours — bear this in mind when planning your trip. Russian citizens only need an internal passport for the trip.

You can also get here by train — for instance on the branded double-decker Moscow – Adler service. The journey takes 24 hours: a platzkart berth starts from around 3,000 ₽, a coupé from around 4,500 ₽. In summer there are direct Moscow – Sukhum trains with a stop in Gagra, and a seasonal Adler – Gagra commuter train also runs twice a day.

If you drive yourself from Moscow along the highway, the distance is about 1,688 km.

Want to wake up next to the Colonnade and stroll over to it before breakfast? Choose Old Gagra. For example, you could stay at the Gagripsh Resort Complex — it sits right next to the restaurant of the same name. Or pick a more budget-friendly option — Aura City Hotel 3*.